Dual plugging provides additional areas of improvement but you really want to be heading that direction rather than just trying it on a whim. Other reasons for the dual plugging as well.probably better cold starting, etc.Įlectronic ignition is kind of like the first level in performance improvement, cheaper all the way around, and can be easily reversed. I think dual plugging can be useful for bikes that are prone to pinging or situations where you want to run a lower grade of gas. I think those are the three main ones for consideration.ĭual plugging gets pretty complicated since you have to remove the top end and get the bottom plugs drilled and tapped. I've heard some about the Omega.I believe it uses the crankshaft for timing so there won't be any double image issues as compared to the others that use the camshaft for timing pulses. A little fiddly to set up but once set, it works great.īoyer is probably the easier installation and setup but has built-in advance curves.I prefer more of the stock curve that the original advance system provides. Read Anton's page for the gamut of electronic ignition systems:ĭyna III allows for independent timing of each cylinder to help smooth out the power pulses the downside (some say, I don't have a problem with it) is that it uses the stock mechanical advance. (There is a special tool that you can install in place of the cam/advance mechanism, it gets the advance out of the way and emulates the highest point of lift that the point cam produces.Yes it is.I have the Dyna III on my /7. If the points are not correctly gapped, it will be nearly impossible to make the final adjustment with the limited range of positioning on the point base plate. The real nitty-gritty is the place where the follower first contacts the cam, separates the contact points, opens the ignition primary circuit, and spark is induced at the spark plug gap. We set the point gap at top of the cam lobe position because that is a known value at a specific place in the rotation of the cam. If the gap is not correct, the cam lobe will ramp up the point set to the open position too soon or too late. The point gap setting has a huge effect on timing so it needs to be pretty much dead on correct. When the points close, the path to ground can go through the closed points and the light should go out. When the points open, the path to ground is then routed through the test light and it should light up. With the test light hooked up, the light should turn on at the precise moment that the S in in the peep-hole. In my mind, those are more straightforward approaches to checking timing.įor the purpose of our discussion here, F is full advance and S is static timing. The F-mark should hit the middle of the window around the RPM and not move anymore with higher RPMs. This lets you check timing at the S-mark but more importantly, where the F-mark is at around 3000 RPM. When the points open, the voltmeter will read 0v.you should then look to see where the S-mark is.ģ) Even easier is to invest in a timing light.they really aren't that expensive. When the points are closed, you should read 12v. Turn the ignition on and rotate the engine as before. Now, with the ignition on, turn the engine as you were doing and listen for the snap of the plugs.that will be the points opening.you should then look to see where the S-mark is in the window.Ģ) Using a voltmeter, connect one end to the wire that is the input to the left coil, and one end to the engine fins. that showed a binder clip which can help with this. Here's a couple of other ways to skin the cat.ġ) Have the plugs out with the threads of the plug securely grounded to the engine fins. I have trouble figuring out where to clip to on the condenser.
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